Skulls, Songs, and Midwinter Magic: Experience the Mari Lwyd

If you think the festive season ended on January 1st, you haven’t experienced a true Welsh midwinter.

While things are peaceful here at Penrhos Park, just a short down the coast in Aberystwyth, they’re gearing up for one of the most unique and atmospheric traditions in the British Isles.

Today, Friday, January 16th, prepare to meet the Mari Lwyd.

Photo by Michael Krahn on Unsplash

Wait, the ‘Old’ New Year?

In many parts of Wales, we hold onto an ancient tradition called Hen Galan - the ‘Old New Year’. Before the calendar changed in the 18th century, the new year was celebrated later in January. Even today, some communities in the Gwaun Valley near Fishguard still celebrate their New Year on the 13th!

Here in Ceredigion, we mark this midwinter period with the arrival of a very special guest.

Meeting the Grey Mare

So, what is the Mari Lwyd (pronounced Maa-ree Loo-id)?

Literally translating to ‘Grey Mare’, the Mari is a figure made from a horse’s skull - sometimes real, sometimes wood - mounted on a pole and carried by a person hidden beneath sackcloth or a white sheet.

It sounds a bit spooky, we admit. But the Mari is decorated beautifully with festive ribbons, bells, and sometimes fairy lights for eyes. She is a creature of anarchy, joy, and good luck.

The Tradition

The Mari party wanders the streets, knocking on doors (usually pubs!). They sing a traditional verse begging for entry. The people inside must sing a verse back, giving excuses why they can’t come in. This back-and-forth battle of wits and poetry is called the pwnco.

Eventually, the Mari wins (she always does), and is invited inside for a drink and food, bringing good fortune to the establishment for the year ahead.

Why You Should Go

If you are staying with us this week, we highly recommend wrapping up warm and heading to Aberystwyth this evening (January 16th) to witness the spectacle.

It’s a piece of living history. The sight of the decorated horse skull bobbing through the dark streets, accompanied by booming voices singing Welsh folk songs, is incredibly atmospheric. It’s fun, it’s chaotic, and it’s something you will never forget.

The procession usually gathers pace around dusk near the Bandstand on the Promenade, before moving into the town centre.

Back to Warmth at Penrhos

After an evening of chilly midwinter revelry on the streets of Aberystwyth, you’ll be ready to head back to Llanrhystud.

The beauty of Penrhos Park is that we are just a short hop down the A487 from the action. You can enjoy the wild culture of the coast and be back in the comfort and warmth of your accommodation within 30 minutes.

Are you heading out to see the Mari Lwyd? Tag us in your photos - we’d love to see her!