Nadolig Llawen: Embracing the Magic of a West Wales Christmas

At Penrhos Park, we are proud of our location in the heart of Ceredigion. While we love the universal joys of turkey and tinsel, West Wales holds some of the most ancient, slightly spooky, and deeply heartwarming Christmas traditions in the British Isles.

If you are joining us for a festive break or simply want to bring a touch of Welsh heritage to your own celebrations this year, here is how to celebrate Christmas the ‘Gorllewin’ (West) way.

Photo by Callum Blacoe on Unsplash

1. The Mari Lwyd (The Grey Mare)

If you see a horse’s skull knocking at your window this December, don’t panic - it’s just the Mari Lwyd! This is perhaps the most distinctive (and eccentric) tradition in our part of the world.

Historically, a horse’s skull would be decorated with bells and ribbons, mounted on a pole, and carried by a person hidden under a white sheet. The group would travel door-to-door, singing verses and challenging the homeowners to a battle of rhymes. If the homeowners couldn’t reply with a clever verse, they had to let the Mari Lwyd inside for food and drink.

You might spot a Mari Lwyd procession in nearby towns like Aberystwyth or Cardigan during the festive season. It is a spectacular sight - part panto, part ancient ritual - and a fantastic way to experience the local ‘hwyl’ (spirit).

2. Plygain: The Dawn Chorus

Before the days of 24-hour electricity, Christmas in rural West Wales didn’t start with presents under the tree, but with Plygain.

Between 3:00 am and 6:00 am on Christmas morning, families would walk through the darkness to the local chapel, lighting their way with torches or candles. Once there, men would gather to sing close-harmony carols (unaccompanied) for hours until sunrise. It was a moment of solemn beauty before the feasting began.

Try it yourself: You don’t have to wake up at 3:00am! But why not take a Christmas morning walk down to the coast at Llanrhystud? Watch the sunrise over the bay and enjoy the peace before the chaos of lunch begins.

3. Noson Gyflaith (Toffee Evening)

In West Wales, Christmas Eve wasn't just for hanging stockings; it was Noson Gyflaith - Toffee Night. Families would wait for the Plygain service by boiling sugar and butter over the fire to make ‘taffy’.

The hot toffee would be poured onto a slate or stone and then pulled repeatedly by hand until it turned golden and chewy. It was a social event, often filled with games and ghost stories.

This is a perfect family activity for a rainy afternoon in your cabin.

• The Recipe: Melt butter and brown sugar (traditional recipes often use equal parts) with a splash of water and lemon juice.

• The Fun: Once it cools enough to handle (but is still warm), grease your hands with butter and pull the toffee into long strands. It’s messy, sticky, and absolutely delicious.

  
  

4. Calennig: The Gift of the New Year

If you are staying with us over New Year’s, look out for Calennig. In the past, children would go door-to-door on New Year’s Day singing for small gifts or copper coins. They would often carry a specific symbol of good luck: an apple perched on three stick legs, studded with oats or almonds and topped with a sprig of box leaves or holly.

Your Penrhos Challenge: Why not make your own Calennig apple to place on the mantelpiece of your lodge? It’s a traditional Welsh way to wish good luck and prosperity to your family for the year ahead.

A Festive Invitation

Whether you are pulling toffee in your pyjamas or exploring the frosty Ceredigion coast, Christmas here is about connection - to the land, to history, and to each other.